Blog

Our Craftsmanship

In this post, I want to say few words about our Craftsmanship

All our jewellery is handcrafted “from scratch” in London, Ontario, Canada. We use only solid precious metal, and same techniques which the most prestigious watchmaking companies in the world use when they craft their luxury watch dials.
Our Enamels
I tried different enamels from different manufacturers – unfortunately we don’t have our own Canadian jewellery enamels manufacturers. Finally I selected enamels and I use exclusively Lead Free glass enamels manufactured by WG Ball Enamels UK. The reason is that with WG Ball Enamels the colour you put is the colour which you get on your piece. If you follow their recommendations there are no off colours, burnt colours etc. defects on your jewellery. WG Ball enamels are also better grinded and sieved than other enamels on the market. There is one more advantage , but we will not say what it is, because similar to other famous jewellery and watchmakers makers, there are some trade secrets which you can’t find in the books , nobody will tell you about them – and jewellers prefer not to talk about them. BUT these secrets make Art of Enamelling even more exciting – because some of the art secrets you can learn only by trial and following your 6th sense.
Our Alloys
We cast our alloys “in house” only from 3 metals – 99.99% pure Silver, 99.99% pure Copper and 99.99% pure Gold bullion.
We Guarantee that our jewellery is Lead Free, Heavy and Poisonous Metals Free, Allergenic Metals Free.
Our Silver Jewellery
For our Silver jewellery we use either 99.99% Fine Silver or Britannia Silver .958 with preference to the latter. The reasons are that, Fine Silver 99.99% is too soft for bigger pieces; and “few copper atoms” help to glass enamels to attach better to Britannia silver than to Fine Silver.
Our choice – Britannia silver .958 contains 960 parts fine silver and 40 parts Copper in each 1000 parts silver alloy. Here is reference to Britannia Silver Standard in Wikipedia
Britannia Silver .958 alloy has
– More silver in it than Sterling Silver alloys .925 

–  Which makes Britannia Silver more tarnish resistant and  Shinier than Sterling Silver and Rhodium flashed Sterling Silver 

– Thus Britannia silver will not tarnish with time 

We don’t use “modern” Britannia Silver alloys made with Germanium instead of copper. I have Master’s degree in Chemical engineering and have doubts about “inertness” of Germanium when used in jewellery which is in constant contact with your skin. While the ordinary Britannia silver alloy made with just Silver and Copper, can be used even for purification of your water. The receptacles in Churches for “holly water“ are made exactly from this silver alloy and this silver + copper alloy is known for its anti-bacterial and aseptic properties – No fancy Germanium here.
Rhodium flushing is another fancy embellishment and merchant trick, which we don’t use.
Rhodium flushing is the reason why when you go to the jewellery store all white metal jewellery is so sparkly.
What is Rhodium flushing?. It is basically electroplating of you inferior Sterling silver or Gold jewellery with few microns of Rhodium – a very shiny and harder than silver metal from the Platinum group of Periodic Table. The problem is that when these few microns Rhodium layer wear off in couple of weeks or months under it is still the sterling silver alloy which will tarnish as sterling silver alloy.
Something else – on microstructural level it is very difficult to solder rhodium plated jewellery. The reason is that rhodium has much higher melting point than traditional gold and silver alloys, so when you try to solder such rhodium plated jewellery atoms of rhodium prevent quality soldering. Something else – all repaired jewellery , which was electroplated beforehand with rhodium has to re-electroplated after repair – so if you decide to repair you gold or silver jewellery, you may finish paying 20-30 dollars for soldering itself and 100+ dollars for re-electroplating of you piece with rhodium. It is neither economical nor practical to spend such amount on a piece which cost even 500 dollars and the only thing you can do is to sell your piece of jewellery which requires repair as metal for re-melting. That is why there is nothing better that natural high polished gold or silver jewellery .
Photography
We do not digitally enhance photos of our jewellery, because this will change original colours of the enamels. Please note in addition that colours of the enamels can vary slightly from pieces shown since each piece of our jewellery is handmade especially for you!

Welcome to our new webpage and our Blog!

It is so exciting that new webpage of BULSmiths jewellers is finally ready for launch!

Welcome to our new webpage and our Blog!

This Blog is an effort to bring you closer and make you familiar with some exciting stuff (at least exciting for us in BULsmiths jewellers 😉 )

  • Posts about Our Craftsmanship and Our Advantage
  • Posts about Art of Enamelling
  • Posts about Gemstones and their Geology – we love field trips and mining in person the gemstones for our jewellery
  • Posts about mysteries of Ancient History

Read Us, Comment on our Stories, Send us Questions – we want to inspire a discussion on of all these topics!

Unfortunately – due to our natural and very “human” laziness it make take couple of days before we publish an answer or reply. But we promise to post new stuff at least once a month …..  🙂 

Yours

Peter V Dobreff, 4th Generation BULSmith and owner of BVLS